Wednesday, September 26, 2007

neighborhood?



To a person who has constantly been on the move, never living in a place for more than a couple years at a time, never fully experiencing a specific community for too long, the idea of neighborhoods has been little more than a word to me. I have lived in my fair share of "neighborhoods" of transient military families with names such as Gen. Pershing Gardens and Cavalry Terrace, but never have I truly understood what a community was or what it means to be part of one, therefore, my perceptions of the idea of community and neighborhood are from the point of view of a complete novice. They are merely outsider observations with no clear point of reference other than those Beaver Cleaver ideas force fed to me by Hollywood. In choosing my path, I had to look back on past writings. I felt like I didn't know or understand anything about the area surrounding City Park, particularly on Lake Ponchartrain. This, naturally, was truly unfortunate for many reasons, the least of which being the fact that I spend so much of my time on site in the park and thus should probably know the areas north of the Park as well as the areas to the south. My other goal in choosing the neighborhoods which I chose was to more fully understand the city's relationship with the water, more specifically with the Lake. I chose a route which I felt reflected both of these main goals; Esplanade Ave. to City Park Ave. to Canal Blvd. to Lakeshore Dr. In doing this, I drove through four neighborhoods (Midcity, Lakeview, and Lakeshore East and West. LakeshoreEast and West). For the express purpose of this paper, I am going to combine Lakeshore East and West into a single neighborhood due to the fact that Lakeshore West did not have many houses or a clear attitude of neighborhood, but rather acted largely as a park. Just as communities align hemselves based not only on geographic infrastructural elements, but also on common beliefs, and what Greenlie refers to as "mythologies", so too was my imediate perception of these different neighborhoods shaped by various archtiectural and natural conditions.

My journey started the way any should, with a clear and dramatic change of scenery. I started underneath I-10 in the shade and gloom of this space which could not truly be considered a space. It was more of a transition space, an area stretched from two spaces seperating. An empty concrete void devoid of any significance other than the one applied conceptually by the viewer. I burst from this vacuumous area in the sun streaked avenue of Esplanade Ave. The entry condition could not have been more perfect for a street such as this. Lined with huge towering Live Oaks and with densely packed housing, it was a definite seperation from the bare vacuumous concrete void left by the elevated interstate. As I drove along the beautiful avenue of Esplanade Ave., I couldn't help but notice how dense the houses were. In some occasions, the houses were so dense that it was a matter of inches which seperated neighbors and a matter of feet that seperated them from the hustle and bustle of the street. Beautiful old raised shotguns nestled beside towering two story homes. Old New Orleans seemed to be the major theme in this neighborhood. People walked around in the neutral ground between the two directions of traffic as if it were their personal yard and sat on the front steps of their raised home the way an old man in a western would sit in a rocking chair on his front porch. The traffic rolled by seemingly oblivious to the life that was taking place not six feet from their windows. The traffic in this area was a remarkable site in itself as well. Cars and trucks caught in afternoon traffic slowly moved the way toothpaste is forced from a tube. The street narrowed as cars parked on the street. There were no parking lots or driveways in this area where every square foot on the street was inhabited by a building. The sunlight was filtered by the overhanging branches of montrous live oaks lining the avenue. It is hard to imagine all the living that these century old trees must have seen on this stretch of land in the Midcity area.As I turned onto City Park drive, I encountered a demarkation proclaiming the start of City Park. I avoided the urge to enter that which General Beauregard was guarding so vigilantly, and skirted left onto City Park Drive. Driving on this road was different from Esplanade as well. Neither did I feel any strong inclination torward any specific building or point of convergence, nor did I feel any strong sense of community. This road was a boundary condition, an area between areas. This, much like the area under the interstate, was a space between spaces.
As I turned onto Canal Ave., a new sense of community began to dawn on me. I understood the ordering of this area slightly more because it was closer to what I was used to. Seemingly standardized houses built in a much later period began to arise.
Buidlings spread out and provided area for recreation. Here there were no people lounging on stoops or playing in the neutral ground. Rather, there were yards in the strictest of suburban definitions. Children played on front lawns and people lounged on their front porches. Space not only seperated houses from the street, but from each other as well, opening up space between not only for recreation, but as a fence of sorts between each house. The style of house considerably changed as well. Only the fact that most were built in the 1940 according to the book History of New Orleans by John Kendall when the area was drained and first made available created common ground for the designs. Ranging from ranch style family homes to spanishesque red tile roofed buildings, to art nouveau and modernist concrete houses, this area's eclectic blend of what it meant to inhabitat a house made the area feel that much less like a neighborhood in the same sense that the Midtown area. One thing I noticed too whilst driving down this particular boulevard, and this may just be because it was a major road in the area and not a neighborhood road, but the houses got considerably larger and pulled farther away from the road the further I went. It was as if the further from the city, no matter how close in reality, the stronger the pull of suburbia. In the article entitled Spaces: Dimensions of the Human Landscape, Greenlie states "As the single-family home on its own plot of land is the mythic image on which the typical American bases the concept of a good home, so the small town is the model for good community." It feels like the Lakeview area was based entirely upon this principle of perfection of the utopic view of the ideal American dwelling/ community. Due in part to the time that these neighborhoods were built, it is easy for me to easily jump to the term suburbia, with all its connotations. As I travelled too, the live oaks grew less and less dense. Palm trees and Banana leaf trees began to replace the light filtering branches of the meandering oak. Sun poured down up on the streets and the houses began taking upon and more tropical or exotic flair. It made me immediately think of driving to the beach. I couldn't help but feel a certain anxiety as I drove through these streets, expecting in my mind to smell the brine of saltwater or hear the call of gulls.

As I reached the end of the road, the road drifted upwards onto a levee. As I crested the levee I caught sight of the lake. No longer were there live oaks. No longer was there any traffic other than the occasional hardcore bicyclist or transient car. This area was beautiful in its bareness. The lake and the sky dominated my view to the right and the levee dominated my view to the left. Caught between these two elements of natural conditions, man-altered though they be, it gave one a certain sense of insignificance. Perhaps this is the cause for the some of the houses I encountered further down Lakeshore Dr.
The Lakeshore area is not entirely a residential area or a business area the way that other areas in the city are. Instead, it is more a park space that celebrates and emphasizes the water of Lake Ponchartrain. There are a few buildings and businesses spotting the area, but the first density that could be considered a neighborhood occured a little way down Lakeshore Dr. This area was a masterpiece of what human beings could do if given too much money and a desire to control their landscape. Greenlie states that "Only influential and affluent city dwellers have significant control over the form of their physical environment." Modernist houses and huge glass houses rise up on slabs in a grove of palms, framing their views of the lake and controlling the endless planes which they live next to. The levees monotony is controlled too by the planting of trees, which though perhaps unwisely places next to the levee, provide a break from the endless wrinkle of land. These sprawling cathedrals to the oil industry defy logic. Here, there are no people visible. No frolicking children or old men sitting on their porch. Here there are no references to buildings next door, but rather walls of controlled palms. Lawns pull so far away from the road, the occuring driveway takes on the air of a street in and of itself. This is a far cry from the tightly compressed buildings found in Midcity or even the community driven suburban streets found in Lakeview. This is money wanting to set itself apart and set itself above the surroundings. As I came to the end of my journey, I was shocked to see howmuch I learned and how much I still wanted to see. In the future, I plan on revisiting these neighborhoods. One trip to form a perception of what the community means to the building is not nearly enough, nor would multiple, but maybe in time I could come to understand that which I have never encountered.

Saturday, September 22, 2007

meet hank

his name is hank. he lives in our doorknob and likes to come out when i'm feeling blue. he's a nice lizard.

Friday, September 14, 2007

no greater muse than gumbo

I am at odds currently. In the past I have eaten in some of the "best restaurants", not only in the United States, but in the world (Paris, Berlin, Lyon, etc. etc. etc.) but I have rarely lived anywhere that I was seriously concerned with my weight simply because I can't seem to get enough of the local genre of food. I absolutely love cajun food and the local food of New Orleans in general.
My first experience with Cajun food was as a child. I loved the interplay of spices and textures. If I were to map out the overlay and structure of the various tastes that impermeate my senses, I believe that it would create the greatest piece of architecture on the earth. There is no greater muse than gumbo.
Not only is new orleanian (is that the correct term?) food absolutely delicious, but it is extremely fun to make. I have never been much of a cook, due in part I'm sure to the fact that I absolutely hate constraints and recipes seem too constrained. However, I don't mean to brag (or maybe I do?), but I whip up a mean mess o' red beans and rice. I believe this is in part due to the fact that cajun cooking is not based on a system of recipes, but rather what tastes right. You stick the Cajun Trinity (onions, bell peppers, and celery) in a dish, mix it with some choice spices and just add stuff based on what you think it needs. I actually have found my own secret ingredient (hint: it makes you feel really good sometimes....) which counteracts some of the digestive negativity that the high dosages of spiciness may produce.
The restaurants here are simply outstanding. My parents visited me a week ago and took me to some places which I couldn't go to normally (due to my status as a "poor college kid"). Emerils was naturally amazing, but dissapointing in terms of the entree. The appetizer (boudin balls) was quite possibly among the top five most delicious things I've ever eaten (also listed there would be my dad's barbeque, my mom's spaghetti, Lucie's capenter/dehahn, and the traditional parisian croque monsieur). By far the most interesting and succulent place to eat is the Court of Two Sisters. When I think of the term buffet, immediately my mind races to a memory I had when I was little of a small boy, elbow deep in the jello dish at a Golden Corral, trying desperately, and messily, to fish out some small prize in the bottom of the dish. The buffet at the Court of Two Sisters is a different experience all together. I had four huge platefuls simply because everything looked so good and I wanted to indulge in everything. Fresh boiled crawfish, huge plates of jumbalaya, cajun omelettes, and shrimp pasta comprised most of my brunch dining experience. My "triathlon mind" was yelling at me to stop eating, but the part of my brain that controlled my pleasures was cooing in delight. I'm not even going to touch mention in detail Beignets... It will only make me hungry...
I dread the scale now. Perhaps I'll just drown my sorrows in pralines.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

sticky

In a city defined by its geographic location to water, New Orleans has become quite unique in my mind by its inherent fear and indifference to its bodies of water. Bounded by the Muddy Mississippi and Lake Ponchatrain, New Orleans has grown and flourished on the traffic generated by its bustling port, but living in this city has taught me that though the city relies on the water, it would much rather pretend that it wasn’t there. Part of the reason for this could be the past treacheries of flooding by the Mississippi and Ponchatrain, and part of it could be that for the common citizen of this city, if the water is out of sight, then it is also out of mind.

Being basically sea-locked from the rest of the country has also created a unique citizen. New Orleans boasts not only some of the most open minded southerner, but also some of the least practical. It is hard to believe that many people would build on slabs in a city that has a famous history of flooding or that people would knowingly cause structural damage to the levees that protect them from flooding by planting trees on them. The city seems quick to forgive the raging waters just on the other side of the barrier. The constant threat of mass destruction has also shaped the citizens of the Big Easy to truly live up to that nickname. Nonchalant and apathetic to most things which would send a New Yorker into a frenzy of gesticulation and cursing, the natives of this city seem to carry on daily activities with a loftiness which is truly enviable. Though the waters rage on the other side of the levees while the people blissfully remain in denial of their danger, a sense of awareness and acute preparation for disaster seems also to permeate the air. Perhaps this is due to the propinquity of the Katrina disaster, but I feel there is something else in the air that constantly reminds people of the water.

I wake up in the morning bright and early to go running before studio. It seems like it would be the only time of day in which the heat of this bowl would not affect my performance. Typically, I am used to running in the mornings or evenings to avoid of overwhelming heat of the day, but here there is another weather condition which directly affects every citizen of this city in a way which is distinct to areas such as Brazil and Costa Rica. This “something in the air” is the almost suffocating humidity of this city.

Whether it be my early morning runs, afternoon bike rides, or evening strolls, the soupy texture of the air is almost choking and surrounds every aspect of the day. Even when not outside, the moisture seems to cling to the skin making one feel clammy and greasy all day. Transportation not in an automobile has been likened more to swimming than walking. The water in this city seems not only to surround the city geographically, but also literally. The city is both under the water table, and in it. It is this fact, both in its explicit callousness, and in its implicit character as a subtle reminder, that have dramatically affected my personal experience in this city… and the number of showers I take a day…

Wednesday, September 5, 2007


Alligators aren't as mean as one is led to believe....

contradiction

Contradiction is often used as a negative term, used to define the conflict between opposing elements. What I failed to realize before coming to New Orleans was that the only way one could rationali8ze diversity is through contradiction. New Orleans is a veritable cesspool of diversity and relating cultures. Here, various backgrounds seemd to have melted together to form a symbiotic whole without losing their distinct flavor. Too often we hear about the “American Melting Pot”--- the combing of different cultures into one American culture. I’d like to argue however that if all these cultures were colors, the combination of them all into the commonly accepted “American” culture creates a dull, grey hue where a new and fresh color upsets the balance of the whole. In New Orleans, however, all the different cultures are melted to create a strange rainbow substance; reminiscent of the colors seen on the surface of an oil spill. The colors blend and contrast in both conflict and harmony.


Hopefully in time, I too could blend myself into this strange assortment of peoples. Right now however, I feel like a tourist stranded in his destination spot for an inordinate amount of time, however pleasant that spot may be. Perhaps this is partially due to the extraordinary number of things to do. At this point, I am at the realization that I could be here for years, and still not see everything. In the short two weeks I’ve been in New Orleans, I have seen some of the most random and seemingly contradictory things on the streets.


My current residence is on Independence St. in the Bywater. This area was not only greatly affected by Hurricane Katrina, but also by poverty. Located between the Mississippi River, the Industrial Canal (which separates it from the lower ninth), St. Claude Ave, and the Marigny area, this strip of primarily residential land espouses everything, both positive and negative, about New Orleans neighborhoods. With a extremely mixed population and socio-economic range, the Bywater area seems to attract people of every walk of life, from the young artist to the elderly parish priest (two of my direct neighbors in fact). Spotted with parks and restaurants, the fiercely local attitude of the inhabitants of this area is reflected in the buildings. The shotgun house, with all of its functional simplicity, is hardly seen anywhere else in the world. Upon visiting such a house, one understands the rustic and yet (contradictorily) poetic nature of the locals to this neighborhood. One has to simply sit in Frady’s restaurant to understand this statement. The people banter and speak to each other in a strange dialect which is vaguely reminiscent of a fierce North Eastern seaboard accent, yet with colloquialisms which can only be found in the South. The appearance of Frady’s and other such restaurants are as misleading as the garish exteriors of the simply designed shotguns, or the rough and unattractive appearance of the inhabitants of this area. The appears masks a culinary delight which, if I didn’t feel like I’d gain 300 pounds easily, I would divulge in daily.


The rest of the city is similarly clad as well. With the exception of the obnoxious, and overrated Bourbon Street, the French Quarter is full of strange and interesting places. In the back of Royal Street galleries sporting ridiculous landscapes or pedantic still-lives, are interesting paintings by local artists. One has to simply sit on one of the park benches in Jackson Square or in Café Du Monde and someone will strike up a conversation. Despite my frequent forays into the Quarter, I have yet to fully understand its customs or its people, or even to figure out who the locals are and who the ex-patriots from other states are.


Although I have traveled through many of the other neighborhoods in town, I have yet to experience them in the same way I have the Bywater and the French Quarter. I have visited Uptown for different concerts and visits to Tulane, but do not understand the area very well, and would easily get lost on its streets. The little bit I have seen of it however lead me to believe that it too holds many secrets and contradictions which I have yet to reveal. Despite the length of my stay in this city, I feel like I will never truly understand its many contradictions, and will constantly feel like a tourist.

-acp